For those not familiar with the therm, it is not the space warp, like in Star Trek and Star wars, no faster than light speed traveling here.
This is why I always print with skirt, brim and raft.
Skirt,is just an outline of one string of filament laid out around the project area.
No practical use except... I pause the print when done, and scratch it with my fingernails to check the adhesion, if poor, I take it away, go a few microns lower with the nozzle, start from scratch.
If no filament comes out the nozzle might be because the nozzle temperature is too low, kill print, raise temp, restart. Or maybe the nozzle is too low and scratches the bed, kill print, lift a few microns the nozzle, start from scratch.
Skirting it only takes a few minute to print and analyze visually and tactile the output, and find the error and adjust, before you really print. Worthwhile.
You know what brim it is, a fine layer of frozen snowflakes over the fields, technically evaporated water hits extremely cold air and falls back as fine snow of a micron thickness, painting everything white. A paint.
Same effect you get when you spray paint over a surface, but you move quick so the layer deposit is too thin and you can still see the underneath colors through it. Why would you do that? It improves adhesion. Next layers even if thicker will stick instead of dripping.
A raft is a bunch of logs made into a platform that can float, sometimes used to live on it in tents while traveling down the rivers, many times used as an improvised life saving device in case of a disaster at sea, you just gather some floating objects in the water, tie them together somehow and jump on them than gather as much supplies as you can, to keep you alive until somebody finds you.
Works similar in 3D printing, it is a multiple hallow "pipes" structure tall as your choice in the settings (I go 5 mm for convenience) on which "platform" s built of about 1 mm thickens, and on top of that the desired object is printed.
Advantages of having a raft: if the bed is not perfect, your object will be according to the bed but if you have a raft; than in the raft thickness the imperfections are compensated for, so you build your object on a better platform. Also the raft is some 5 mm larger than the object to print all around it.
Disadvantages of all this, well... at the end you have to clean all that off, time, dust bits.. you know the drill.
What does all this have to do with warping? Nothing; I mean if you don't work with your brain.
But, if warping starts, do not wait until all is gone loose and you must throw it away, use some light aluminum blades of less than 5 mm thickness and some 2 to 5 centimeters wide, as log as the bed width (maybe even one centimeter shorter, can do) to lock down your brim to the bed mechanically, so that your blades are under the height of the raft over which you print, hence will not clash with the nozzle or Z sensor in the movements.
Also as you go high in print the warp forces increase, and your brim might start to peel off the skirt (that itself is a cause of warping), so when you are a few millimeters higher than the raft, just move your locking down system from the brim on top of the raft edge, and lock it back.
And finish your print without wasting too much time and material with restarting until you get it right.
End of story? Layer 151 of 157 printing just fine thank you, nearly done, the infill is at 20% and the infill holes go down to the first layer of the printed part, no clogging.
All it took was 4 large paper clips, two bits of aluminum from may scrap spares, and imagination, from my abundance.
Old school, good results.