3D CAD model help needed for a product design on a Competition sporting gun

Hi All,
I am a semi pro clay pigeon shooter and I am also a Engineer. I have a 3d printer and a CNC machine and I am wanting to model a custom designed gunstock that fits my palm. (photo attached of what im looking for)
I can do CAD to an extent but this may be a little beyond me. I am going to use Autodesk recap to produce the 3d model of the current stock to give the geometry but need a pro who wants to make it there own. willing to engrave the designers name into it so everyone knows where it came from.

this project will be exciting and will be able to machine it.
anyone willing to help please message me.
will be doing the 3d recap model this weekend.


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8 Answers

I've never used Recap, but looking at all of the case studies, it appears to be meant for large scale project (i.e. buildings). Does it work well with smaller items like a gun stock?

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hi, yes it works well on small objects, I was fortunate enough to visit Autodesk advance centre last week in the UK and the new version is great, heres a link showing the detail

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Just to update, the Recap model didn't goes as well as I would have hoped, any advice/help how I can model the gunstock? here is the photo of my current gunstock that has geometry I need to keep to fit the gun

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The video you posted above was great. I really need to experiment more with photogrametry now that I don't have easy access to a laser scanning arm anymore.

I posted this tutorial (really more of a link) a while back: Amazing Realistic Rendering with Reality Capture from Photographs
It details some other programs you might explore if Recap is not working.
Generally, I'd say that the programs are all doing the same thing, so a lot may come down to the images which were captured.

Is the Matt Stock image above an example of the photos used for the capture?
- set the object up in a homemade light booth to control the lighting
- dust the part with baby powder to reduce glare/specularity
- Ideally apply some texture to the model as in the tutorial link, but that may be difficult to do with baby powder.

I used baby powder a lot when scanning objects since it is easily removed and does not damage the finish like most spray on options (pant, magnflux crack developer, or even athlete's foot sprays). Just put some powder in a bag with the part, and shake for a bit. Think of it like breading some chicken breasts!
But, powder is very easy to mess up if the part is disturbed. I'd use primer anytime it was an option (Krylon is my favorite).

I'm not sure if the checkered grips will ever "scan" correctly. I'd mask those areas out with some well trimmed masking tape. The resulting model will be MUCH easier to work with without such details.

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Given the end goal of machining, scanning the stock may be of limited use unless the plan is to use it as a guide while building a CAD model.
I'd check with the machinist, or the person who will be running the CAM software and the mill/router. They will have a good idea of the data needed.

Most machining operations will not work well from scan/mesh data. They will want/expect clean data which is not made up of thousands of facets.

The "best" method is going to be modeling the desired stock as a surface or solid model.
Scan data can certainly help make that process easier for more organic curvy shapes like this though.

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I experimented with Agisoft Photscan software this weekend. Photogrammetry is a bit slow when compared to laser scanning, but the end results were pretty impressive, and not needing expensive dedicated hardware is a huge bonus.

Some images are attached to show one of the captured photos, then the raw 3d mesh, and another 3d mesh with textures from the photo(s) applied.

The underside of the model is missing, but I suspect that can be fixed by flipping the model over, taking more photos, then stitching the resulting meshes into a single model. I've no idea how to do that yet, but figured this was a pretty good start.

Also attached is a step file generated from the mesh. It is entirely unsuitable for machining, but it is a lot smaller than the mesh model (even with decimation).

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Hi, Thanks for such a huge amount of help. I think your right with having to model this. I found a great tutorial on fusion so will have to give it a try, the issue with the models from photos is the scale and this may prove to be hard as accuracy is key. I will give it a try and let you know, thanks so much your help is appreciated

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